FALL 2013 MENSWEAR TRENDS IN A PHRASE:
Impeccable tailoring: as seen at Duckie Brown
Attention to detail: as seen at Timo Weiland
Prep or “collegiate” style: as seen at J. Crew, and Boast
Sport Style: as seen at Y-3 and Number Lab
The power of the right accessories: a snappy hat at Timo Weyland and at Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown [s/s2013], the classic Monk Shoe at Boast.
When it comes to getting dressed, think of your look as part of your personal brand. The most successful fashion designers live by the mantra, “Stay true to your brand”, and so do the best-dressed men.
There’s nothing wrong with a bit of experimentation, but if you know in your heart that you are “a preppy guy” then follow designers who deliver that aesthetic. You hardly want to pitch your wardrobe every season, right? Rather, consider adding pieces that complement your core look.
Fashion advice from New York’s top menswear designer
“Wear it like you own it” – Steven Cox, Duckie Brown
Worn by the wrong man, Exit #18, an electric blue backward coat could have been interpreted as “feminine”. Texan model, Mark Frick looked completely at ease walking down the runway in it and so will the men who gravitate to Duckie Brown.
The Trends – Expanded
Jim Moore, GQ Magazine’ s Creative Director, stressed the important of “razor sharp tailoring” at the Duckie Brown menswear fall 2013 show. The red, black and camel topcoats were impeccably tailored, as were all the jackets. In the Duckie’s able hands, even a humble denim jacket looked “bespoke”.
Another way to look sharp is to invest in clothes that have wonderful detailing to them. At Timo Weiland the interesting diamond and hexagon stitching on the leather jackets elevated the jackets to designer status as did the interesting weave on the black kangaroo pocket sweater shown.
Split Star’s black nylon quilted jacket has similar stitching on it paired with Duke’s black adjustable waist trousers delivers the same understated yet knatty look. The jacket is this item is available from Big Dude Clothing.
Collegiate style came on strong for fall 2013. This is a great style for a variety of reasons: most men have worn it at least once and it’s universally flattering.
Boast’s Creative Director, Danielo Pepice, suggests good old-fashioned bomber jackets and windbreakers as core pieces to your fall wardrobe. Ben Sherman’s Navy Bomber Jacket if right on trend. It’s got a nice check lining that’s classic prep.
D555 offers an asymmetrical striped polo that’s a great addition to your closet and looks well with the Ben Sherman Navy bomber jacket.
And finally, there are the accessories Even if the current trends don’t speak to you; you can easily update your current duds by donning the right hat or shoe.
Look for a thick soled substantial footwear such as the platform trainers, at Y-3 or thick soled leather shoes at Duckie Brown from their Florsheim by Duckie Brown range. For a dressier look, you can’t go wrong with a pair of classic Monk Shoes. They look even better when they’re a bit scuffed.
For some more dressing tips, read on for our interview with our favorite big guy, Mark Behnke, Managing Editor of Cafleurebon.com
Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel designer, and fashion pundit famously told W Magazine that he lost over 20 kilos because he wanted to wear Hedi Slimane’s super slim suits for Dior Homme. His goal was “to look like a human asparagus.”
Karl achieved his goal, but not everyone wishes to so drastically alter his size. Mark is in his words, “a big guy” but he’s become adept at working with his size. We did a post-mortem of our day at NYFW and tackled the size issue challenge.
“It’s very difficult for me to shop”, says Mark. “At my very thinnest, I could fit into an XL. The moment you move over an XL, they [fashion designers] don’t service it. The biggest is a 42” waist on pants and a 2X on shirts.
He does however credit Perry Ellis for the company’s flexible attitude towards sizing. “Perry Ellis is very popular with (American) football players because they service them”.
Mark shared several ideas for staying on trend if you’re not fashion model skinny.
Tip #1: Look for colors and size.
While something may not come in a larger size, menswear manufacturers DO make clothing in on-trend colors.
Tip #2: Develop your accessory collection: ties and accessories are big.
Here’s the chance to incorporate the latest colors into your wardrobe.
Tip #3: Go custom, if and when you can. Mark quips, “With unlimited money, you could go to a designer and say, ‘Make it in my size’.”
– Vivian Kelly –