Piazza Sempione – Fall/Winter 2012-13

Text, Vivian Kelly

Piazza Sempione – Empowered Dressing For The Busy Woman

Look 34- Satin Douchesse Dress and leather envelope clutch

On the way to a self-imposed writing sabbatical in Punta de Mita, Mexico, I found myself sitting next to a tall redheaded woman who was intently hunched over her laptop- our AA flight had wifi. The first thing I looked at was her clothes and over the course of a short conversation, she divulged that she was partial to Tahari. The teal shift dress she was wearing was nice, but someone of her stature would look incredible in Piazza Sempione. Here’s a woman who lives in Manhattan, takes a taxi to LaGuardia for a two hour meeting in Dallas and gets back on a plane right afterwards to log in a few more hours at the office, and then finishes the day with a business dinner.

Wow. This is just a typical day in her weekly schedule. As we talked I blurted out, “Have you ever heard of Piazza Sempione?” She said she had not and I tried to explain that this company made exquisitely tailored clothes with women just like her in mind. Piazza’s Communications Director, Cristina Cavatore, is another such woman. She is the perfect spokeswoman for this impeccable Italian womenswear brand. She’s sleek, polished and impeccable.

Look 33 - Silk Satin Deco Printed Dress

In the video below, she talks about the fall/winter 2012-13 collection and the brand’s roots. Most importantly though, she explains how wearing the right dress or outfit can empower busy women and serve as a tool to get them through their busy day knowing that they look their very best. I’m not completely in agreement with the saying “The clothes make the man/woman”, but knowing that you are well put together sends out a powerful message and is in itself empowering.

Last Thoughts – for Next Time: Writing this post got me thinking of Wallis Simpson who ALWAYS looked impeccable and put together. I’m on the hunt to watch Madonna’s film, W.E. to put Douglas Hannant’s “Gentry” fall 2012 collection into proper context for a post next week.

Reem Acra Bridal & Nina Catrina Design Studio

Text and Video, Vivian Kelly

Reem Acra Bridal Gown from the Spring 2013 Collection Show

What in the h–l does one of fashion’s must luxurious fashion lines [Reem Acra] have to do with Nina Catarina,[an artisanal Mexican clothing and accessories collection]?

Answer: They’re Both All About Women, strong women.

I’ve been thinking a lot about strong women lately. It started as I stood on my chair at the exclusive Reem Acra spring 2013 bridal show at her plush Fifth Avenue showroom/offices shooting the video shown in this post. The end of the show was a surprise which the designer explained as “redefining the way modern women reveal their strength” in her program notes. In one of these gowns, a woman becomes transformed into an other-worldly being, an auspicious way to start a new segment of her life.

A week later, on the Riviera Nayarit, in Punta de Mita, I met with Mexican artist/fashion designer, Ana Pena . She was setting up her new studio in the Pasha Bazar space where I found the Baixada python bags in an earlier post.

Detail - Hand Sewn Birds on Nina Catrina Wrap Skirt

I loved Ana’s work with these local women artisans, which came about when she branched out after years of non-profit work on behalf of women in need. She creates a sketch of a design concept and gives it to local women she works with. The results are beautiful handstitched one of a kind pieces such as the tee she wore or a wrap skirt with birds embroidered on it.

I spotted a fellow traveler wearing a pair she’d bought during her stay at the nearby Four Seasons Resort. With Ana’s support, this local woman artist is finally experiencing some success at retail.

Nina Catrina Leather and Suede Hobo Bag

: Nina Catrina Straw Bag

On the surface, Ana’s wrap skirts and Reem’s bridal gowns are very different. On a deeper level, they serve a similar purpose – to give women a sense of pride, and that’s a powerful gift that lasts far beyond the day you create or wear the dress.

To Contact Ana about her curated collection: bonitabythesea@gmail.com//cell: 044 322 160 98 30

I’m waiting for Half the Sky to arrive, a book Ana said was a “must read”, which delves further into women and their place in the world.

Makeup: Laura Mercier’s Blushing Brides at Marchesa

Text, Vivian Kelly

Photos of Marchesa Brides, courtesy of Kaplow P.R.

Exclusive Preview: Makeup Artist Talia Shobrook Creates the Perfect “Blushing Bride” Face for the Marchesa Spring 2013 Bridal Show

CloseUp of Marchesa Bridal Face Using Laura Mercier Products

When I attend the New York Bridal Shows, my attention is usually focused on the hair, as there is usually more creativity being exercised there, as opposed to makeup.

*If you missed my post on the gorgeous princess bride hair and head piece, Leonard Zagami created for Angel Sanchez, click here for some inspiration.

Leonard Zagami's Hair for Angel Sanchez's Bridal Show

To be fair, that is perfectly understandable, as the wedding dress is the focal point, not a bright red lip or smoked-out eyes. Save that for the other “Red Carpet Moments” in your life, like a big night out.

This is not to say that brides should content themselves with no makeup and just a slick of lipgloss. Beauty junkies – you know that the “no makeup aka natural look” is the hardest one to achieve.

Laura Mercier artist, Talia Shobrook created the Perfect “Blushing Bride” Face for the Marchesa Spring 2013 Bridal Show. For the “how-to” directions, check out her detailed face chart below.

The HOW-TO: Laura Mercier Face Chart for Marchessa Bridal

Even if you’re not a bride to be, this look is perfect for any woman who just wants to look pretty and natural. This look, by the way, has never gone out of style, since in was in vogue as far back as the day of portraitist, Thomas Gainsborough [1727-88], a favorite of the Royal Family, who specialized in flattering portraits and landscapes “bathed in delicate and evanescent colors”.

For more information on Gainsbrough and his work, visit, http://www.ibiblio.org/wm/paint/auth/gainsborough/

Lady in Blue, by Thomas Gainsborough

Portrait of Thomas Gainsbrough's Daughters

So get to it, and have fun!

All products Talia used are available at LauraMercier.com

Baixada Python Leather Bags

Text, Vivian Kelly

The last thing I expected to find while on sabbatical in sleepy Punta de Mita [ a tiny surfing village on Mexico's Southwest Coast] was a hot handbag.

Madrid Strap Baixada Bag in Bubble Gum Pink

On my way to Oxxo, Mexico’s answer to our 7-11 convenience shops, was the . I wandered in and there, in the midst of other gypset styled furniture and knicknacks for the home, was a bubble gum pink leather bag. It took me back to the mid-Nineties, when Carla Fendi created the Fendi baguette bag that hung on every Upper East Side social’s arm and cost a pretty penny.

Designer Lisa Zawacki founded Baixada in 2004, when she was seeking a clutch that was bold, unique and well-made. She hand selects the python skins which are then sent to the village of Ubrique, in the mountains of southern Spain, a place that has been famous for over 200 years, for its fine leather goods.

The genius is in the details, right? The notable detail on these bags is a hand designed sterling silver zipper pull shaped like a monkey. According to folklore, the monkey represents intelligence, creativity and influence. Each pull is enhanced with genuine gemstone eyes. The eyes are coordinated with the color of the handbag.

Baixada Sterling Silver Monkey Pull- detail

www.baixada.us/handbags_ms.htm

I’ve got my eye on the “Barcelona Clutch” but for now, as soon as the store opens tomorrow, I promised Jay I’d be there to buy my first piece – a magnetic money clip in poison green “nilo” – the first Baixada piece in my collection.

Retail 411:

Baixada – US Office, tel: 1- 404-307-4509

Website: www.baixada.us

Angel Sanchez Bridal – Angelic Hair & Gowns

Forward, Vivian Kelly

Angel Sanchez Finale With Leonard Zagami's Custom Headpieces to Match

Venezuelan born Angel Sanchez is a designer who has some similarities to the late great Gianfranco Ferre. Both began their careers as architects and switched over to fashion design. Their architectural roots are present in their clean yet dramatic silhouettes. Mr. Ferre’s most memorable pieces were his stunning white dresses and blouses. As you can see, in the right hands a white dress or shirt can be a gorgeous wardrobe staple. Those who own classic Ferre pieces such as these, never give them up.

Gianfranco-Ferre- Another Outstanding Design

By contrast, Mr. Sanchez is known for his bridal and evening gowns. He has a legion of celebrity fans for his bridal and evening wear including Sandra Bullock, Gisele Bundchen, Salma Hayak and Beyonce. His bridal designs range from a simple destination bride dress for the woman who wants to take her vows barefoot in the sand to sumptuous designs like the Couture Wedding Gown Eva Longoria wore to take her vows in 2008. Although there are yards and yards of train in Eva’s gown, the lines remain architecturally sleek and un-fussy.

Eva Longoria in her Angel Sanchez Couture Wedding Gown, 2008

: Photo Above, Angel Sanchez Destination Bridal Gown as seen in MS-Weddings-Spring08-p.21

A great dress though, is not enough. The hair must absolutely complement the dress. Star hair stylist, Leonard Zagami created some unique silver headpieces backstage at the latest Angel Sanchez bridal show that were absolute perfection.

To read Leonard Zagami’s hair tutorial, written by Anthony Palermo, click on the above for the complete story and all of the images.

Leonard Zagami at Work Backstage at the Angel Sanchez Bridal Show

Below, a sneak peek of the perfectly synchronized hair Leonard created for the show. He used Moraccan Oil, a product that he and Anthony recommended after Anthony made me a pale silver blonde. I now use on a daily basis for its near miraculous abilities to transform my processed hair into hair worth running my fingers through.

Backstage Interview -Tadashi Shoji’s Shanghai Inspiration

shanghai-old-city

Text and Videos, Vivian Kelly

Green Gown from Tadashi Shoji's Fall 2012 Shanghai Collection

Last season, New York society designer, Douglas Hannant, told me he was inspired by The Golden Age of Thirties Shanghai after poring over a friend’s family collection of black and white photographs. Douglas spoke of the past – of the upper-class ex-pat British Embassy scene. If you missed it, here it is. Said friend was working on a book for Assouline Publishing. I can’t wait to see it!

Tadashi spoke of the past but was also influenced by today’s Shanghai. The colors he recently saw on the streets of Shanghai helped inspire his fall 2012 collection, which prominently featured lace and was decidedly evening in feeling. He’s had successes in getting his designs on the most important Red Carpets, most notably on The Help’s best supporting actress winner Octavia Spencer at this year’s SAG Awards.

Octavia Spencer at SAG Awards in Tadashi Shoji as shot for Getty Images

Below, Shanghai today, as seen by Tadashi Shoji. The new collection is sophisticated and shows less skin than many Red Carpet choices, but these are gowns that are meant to be worn by confident women who have risen above “starlet” status and are now “stars”.

Photos from Style.com and Travel Adventures.org
Runway photo: Yannis Vlamos / GoRunway.com

IMATS New York – Star Wars Makeup

Text, Vivian Kelly

The last thing I expected to see at IMATS NY were Star Wars characters.

Star Wars Character in the Making at IMATS NY

When Amanda Razzano, my social media advisor-guru and professed beauty junkie suggested we hit IMATS NY, I had a vision of the big brands at Lord & Taylor, Macy’s, etc. transported down to the Piers.

The Start of A Transformation

How wrong I was! What there was were some brands I’d never heard of – Michael Marcus Cosmetics [90% organic, hypo-allergenic and cruelty-free]. Inspired by my friend/blogger Sofia Bak green advice and lifestyle, I purchased the aloe vera-based cleanser and toner. They felt great and the full sized bottles were $20 each, half of what I’d pay at retail. Nice!

Some Michael Marcus Skin Care Products

There were also tons of lashes, eye-popping shadows that mime the extreme ready to wear colors I’ve been seeing on the streets and in the stores. Everyone was running around trying everything and buying, buying, buying and having a blast.

The most exciting moment though, came when we got to see the Star Wars characters posing in their outfits created using makeup. It was like being on the set of a movie and the crowd and film crews ate it up.

Posing Outside IMATS With the Fans

Making the Case For Lace – A Wearable Trend

Text, Vivian Kelly

After viewing Louis Vuitton’s spring 2012 runway show on style.com, I decided I’d try to make the Case for Lace ie: WHY we should be wearing it now.

The Louis Vuitton spring 2012 Ad That Makes a Strong Case for Lace

Friend and fashion powerhouse, Sofia Bak-Shershunovich [@So_BFM], fellow blogger and Vogue Italia Contributor, is responsible for getting me to give lace a serious look. In a tweet she mentioned how funny it was that Zara had clothes that were nearly identical to Marc Jacobs’ LV one. This, I had to see.

I hit the sparkling new Zara flagship on 5th Avenue and 53rd Street and waited until the sales associate produced the blush pink dress I had to have, complete with a frothy lace overlay. A few hours later, my acting coach, Susan Grace Cohen, had me try it on and pronounced it perfect. It IS but it is also delicate so watch where you sit as it snags almost as easily as fine Warhoal stockings. Cost – $50, on sale.

The HUNT was ON.

Next, I shopped my closet and rediscovered a gorgeous cotton cream tunic – my first piece from my Michael Kors PR days, from the spring or resort 1992 collections. Cost – priceless, it has history.

Vintage Michael Kors Lace Tunic From 1992

Earlier in the week, on the way to a White by Vera Wang press preview, I stopped into The Thrifty Hog, on 11 West 25th Street. This is the chicest thrift shop I’ve ever stepped into – and I’ve been in a LOT of these! There, on a rack, was an adorable XII cotton lace dress, that only needs to be hemmed at the tailor. Cost – $15. Even better, the proceeds go to the Hearts of Gold Foundation.

Thrift Shop Dress

The above are day looks. Lace though, really shines in the bridal arena. My first reminder of this was at the White by Vera Wang press preview mentioned earlier in this piece. Unbelievably, the gowns retail [not wholesale!] from $600 – 1400 at David’s Bridal. DB Public Relations Manager, Christy Robil, took me through the sunny showroom pointing out the salient details of each gown. She remarked, “Some of our brides prefer to spend their money on a beautiful ring and less for their dress. This collection gives them designer style for a very reasonable price.”

A Frothy Inspiration From White By Vera Wang

After viewing the collection, I couldn’t agree more. If you’re in the market for a stupendous ring, visit Andrew and John at the Persian Shop located at 534 Madison Avenue. If the ring of your dreams isn’t there, they will work with you to create it. I recently “traded-up” to a 2 carat sapphire ring in a stunning blue shade. While I love the ring, the white glove friendly service has made me “a friend of the store” for life.

NEXT UP: NY Bridal Coverage of the best designer dresses in store this fall.

I’m In The Mood For Nude

Makeup: Lorac Unzipped Nude, Laura Mercier Belle Nouveau

Text, Vivian Kelly

In a season that is all about bright color, that sounds all wrong, right?

What I mean is I’m in the mood for nude MAKEUP.

Versace dress, photo by Gianni Pucci for Gorunway.com

: Kenzo – by Humberto Leon and Carol Lim, from style.com, photo, Yannis Vlamos/GoRunway.com

Take the bright outfits at Kenzo and Versace in style.com’s “look of the day” survey. The bright green top and skirt and yellow dress are so bright that you need to take it easy on the makeup. Note the Versace model’s dramatic cateye and otherwise bare face. Spring and summer bright clothes are already so attention grabbing that as stylist Yann Varin said, you have to have balance.

Tip: When wearing a bright dress, don’t wear bright makeup – color is great but too much is too much.

Yann Varin’s formula for dressing in perfect balance – if you haven’t read it - “A Style Lesson With Yann Varin” .

While I have always liked nude, I’ve had trouble with it, either choosing lipsticks that are overly pale or too brown and muddy for my complexion.

Lorac Unzipped : The Nude Collection

: The LORAC nude kit – your perfect travel companion

I stopped trying to find “my nude” until Siren PR sent me Lorac’s nude kit to try-out. The idea: that you can get by with very few products and that theirs suit many different skin tones. Add to that, the eye shadow palette comes with easy to follow “day” and “evening” look application directions – love that!

Many of you travel and if you’re like me, you want the packing process to be easy and to have everything put together for you. The Unzipped Nude Kit is all you need to get you through a 3 night 4 day get-away. There’s a blush, a lip gloss, eye-shadow palette, blush, and mascara. The lipgloss has a permanent spot in my handbag because I love the barbershop sign swirl pattern and how well the “Andy” gloss stays on. It’s got a thicker consistency but it’s not overly goopy and has a delicious creme brulee scent. The blush is subtle and has a bit of plum to it that gives you a natural looking flush and stays on for hours.

Availability

Ulta.com for the Unzipped Collection, $34

Lorac Cosmetics.com for more Lorac products

The Many Lip Glosses from LORAC, $18 each

This season, Laura Mercier, another of my beauty favorites, has a new, limited-edition Belle Nouveau Collection, which is available on counter May-June. It’s inspired by Laura’s background as a painter and her love for the Art Nouveau era’s innovative spirit. Kaplow PR sent it over two of the limited edition creme lip prints to try. The collection focuses on soft but daring colors that are playful and romantic. This is a go-to collection if you want to wear color on your face.

Highlights include Laura’s FIRST-EVER colored mascara: the Long Lash Mascara in Bleu and Lavender Cloud Nail Lacquer, a whimsical, pastel color. There’s also an addition to fans favorite Caviar Eye Stick Colour: Turquoise, a rich, bright color, which is ideal for creating a unique eye look.

Laura Mercier Creme Lip Print in Nude Beige

: Laura Mercier Turquoise Eye Liner – the Belle Nouveau Collection

With this much attention on your eyes, you’ll find the balance you need with Laura’s subtly soft Limited Edition Crème Lip Prints I road-tested. She’s got your particular complexion covered. There’s Nude Beige, Nude Coral, Nude Pink to choose from. They feel smooth and easy – like your favorite lipbalm and retail for $20 a piece. Added bonus – they have a nice sized mirror for easy application.

Lastly, don’t forget the basis of an impeccable nude look - a foundation that eliminates any redness or unevenness. After trying several foundations: MAC Mineralize Foundation SPF15, Shiseido, and Laura Mercier, I recommend Laura Mercier’s oil free supreme foundation for warmer temps as it feels light, but still gives good coverage. Save the MAC for the harsh winter months when you want more on your face to protect your skin from the cold. What really sold me on Laura’s foundation was how it got increasingly comfortable as the day went on, so much so that I forgot I had foundation on – a first for me!

Availability

lauramercier.com, Bloomingdale’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, Neiman Marcus, Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, and select Belk, Blue Mercury, Lord & Taylor, and Macys.

Capsule Collections & Collaborations: Old Navy, Jones NY

Text, Vivian Kelly

Fi-na—lly! Department Stores and mid-level retailers are fighting back.

Wes Gordon's Capsule Collection for Jones of NY

For years, department stores and mid-level retailers been watching the flash successes Mass and Class Collaborations have yielded at H&M and Target. Sadly, big mid-level brands like those in the GAP group and department stores seemed boring by comparison, irrelevant even.

Old Navy, Jones NY are all well priced [ie: affordable to most] brands, but up until now were low on the sizzle quotient.

There’s a change in the air. The above are borrowing a page from that play book – adding designer sizzle and glamour to their brands. It’s a tweak on the over-used formula of pairing a very prestigious fashion house and a mass retailer, most recently Marni for H&M.

Some significant differences between the Jones of NY and Old Navy collaborations vs. H&M and Target’s approach are:

- At Jones and Old Navy there is a lack of contrived chaos and the designer is cast as a talented fashion designer, not a rock star.

It’s hard to forget Roberto Cavalli’s mugging for the cameras during the opening of his Cavalli for H&M madness.

Italian Fashion Designer Roberto Cavalli Strikes A Pose. Fashion Designer as a Rock Star Style Personality

- You can view the clothing in a low-key manner and actually have contact with the designer

Sure, the sizzle that the H&M designer collaborations provide is exciting but it’s like a sugar high – an hour later you crash “Why DID I buy that” buyer’s remorse sets in. You arrive home with a wild colored printed shirt you will never actually wear. Clever DIY-ers like Erica Domesec of P.S. I Made This could probably repurpose into a cute table cloth or something cute for the home. Most of us shove the goods into the deepest recesses of our closet after one wearing.

Getting invited to the Marini-H&M cocktail preview was a thrill but the actual event was a different story. I’d seen YouTube videos of the chaos and lines the first day of shopping for the Missoni- H&M Limited Edition Collection, but incorrectly assumed that the press shopping party the night before at such events would be …..dignified.

The Madness on the Floor - Marni for H&M

Happily, I wore Supergas that night, instead of the pair of Prada pumps I’d originally planned on. If I hadn’t been in sneaks, I probably would have ended up sprawled face first on the floor in a fruitless attempt to grab the last remaining Marni top in my size.

The Supergas gave me the ability to dash to the accessories area and snatch a cute hat and pair of sunglasses. That, plus the scarf we were gifted at the door added a nice dose of Marni to my wardrobe and no sizing or fabric issues to deal with later.

Weeks later, at a Piazza Sempione fall 2012 collection preview, as I chatted with HLGroup’s Caroline Curtis about that evening, I mulled over how much more “designer” the showroom press preview felt. This led to yet another comparison after attending an Old Navy preview organized by Alison Brod PR. that was FUN.

Old Navy Designer Kim Brennecke and her Victorian Inspired Tops

In-between designing our own teeshirts at a craft table, we spoke with Kim Brennecke, who designed Old Navy’s first featured capsule collection, a new sub-brand for the company. We also previewed the film which shows Kim’s creative process in putting together her Victorian inspired collection. Kim’s collection launches April 7th. Visit Oldnavy.com to pick up some of her pretty pieces, especially the short sleeve top and the dresses. Old Navy will grow this sub-brand by featuring a different capsule collection every other month. Each mini collection will be in store for 6 weeks at 95 stores in the USA and at oldnavy.com.

A few weeks earlier, Jones NY upped its ante and held a trunk show at Bloomingdales’ on 59^th Street. Rising star, Wes Gordon was on hand to meet and greet both press and customers. Jones NY had given their “moderate brand” the high-end fashion designer treatment. Wes’s pedigree alone gave JNY designer status – the sizzle part. He’s a Graduate of St. Martins who trained under Tom Ford and Oscar de la Renta.

Designer Wes Gordon

A resume isn’t all that’s required of course and Wes delivered some steak to go with the sizzle. The look book for this capsule collection shows designs that the modern fashion-conscious woman wants to wear to work, as does Piazza Sempione.

Maybe these sorts of initiatives will also serve to change our perception of Old Navy, Jones of NY and other mid-level retailers. We may start thinking of these brands as companies that allow talented designers to exercise their creativity to deliver garments that are a bit more “Fashion” and less “just clothes”.