The Lumete EyeWear Collection – Glasses as Unique as Fine Jewelry

Text, Vivian Kelly

Right after NYFW, there are the trade shows, the big ones at the Piers and Javitz and the smaller Capsule show, staged in an art gallery in the West Twenties. I made the trek with new fashion friend, LA based Nathaniel Smith. We’d met at the BING Lounge in the sumptuous Mandarin Oriental Hotel, after I admired his unique custom handbag on display there. His new label is called Tradesrogue, an artisan leather house.

That Saturday at Capsule, we talked with and saw a few dozen vendors and their collections. One of our outstanding finds was the Lumete EyeWear line. There was a swirl of activity around their table so we went to investigate.

Lumete is an interesting name so is their mission statement.

“Lumete (prounounced “lou-met”) is derived from the words lumen and amulet. The Renaissance alchemical concept of Lumen Naturae refers to the light hidden in all matter, which alchemists believed could be released and transformed through their work. An amulet is an object used for protection and luck. Eyeglasses are beautiful amulets that adorn your face, protect your eyes, and help you see clearly. Metaphorically, they connect your inner vision and your perception of the world.”

The two -woman team [Clara Herrera and Barbara Warren] we met, combine two key elements – art and commerce. Clara [the creative's ] resume includes working as Creative Director and product designer for The Sarut Group, and photography editor for MTV Networks and The New York Sun.

Barbara [the business brains], worked as a hedge fund attorney for Wall Street law firms Fried Frank and White & Case. The two happened to be neighbors, and decided to collaborate on something they were both passionate about.

A few questions we got answered were: How Do you know a pair of frames are really handmade?

Answer: Look for a core wire in the stems. If you see the wire, you know that they are handmade.

This is important because you’d THINK that if you pay upwards of $350 for a pair of designer frames, that of COURSE they are handmade. Wrong, they are not, and buyer beware. Some big names who license out to eyewear conglomerates don’t always deliver the quality you’d expect at the prices they charge.

Although Clara and Barbara seem low key, they’ve made impressive progress with their fledgling line. At the time of the show, their innovative but practical frames are available in 18 doors, thanks to support from some blogging heavy hitters such as The Cherry blossom girl, Gala Darling and support from style maker Dita Von Teese and a following of indie bands, who like to wear their Lumets while performing.

These frames are not for you if you tend to toss your glasses carelessly on the counter or the floor of your car. Buy a pair of these and as the Lumete girls said, “you’ll come to consider them to be like jewelry”.

Lumete Eyewear Co Contact info:

tel: 212 477 8066

119 Mott St., Ste. 4, New York, NY 10013

Mad Men Costume Designer Janie Bryant Reveals How To Use Carolee Jewelry to Get the Look

Text, Vivian Kelly

Are you a “Betty-Jackie” or a “Joan-Marilyn”? Mad Men Costume Designer, Janie Bryant shares a few key accessory styling tips to enhance your look.

Janie Bryant, recently had a public appearance, hosted by Carolee jewelry, at Bloomingdale’s Century City in Los Angeles. Style expert Janie met with customers and provided jewelry and fashion advice on “How to become your own leading lady!”

Not being on the West Coast at the time, I couldn’t go, but I got to correspond with her via email and I’m going to pick up a copy of her new book, which she recently released. THE FASHION FILE Advice, Tips and Inspiration from the Costume Designer of MADMEN, provides tips based on Janie’s “Mad Men” style trends. In it, she teaches her readers how to create different moods and reveal a bit about their personality through accessories… “It’s the surest cure-all for wardrobe ennui.”

I’ve been a fan of Mad Men, since last summer, when checked into a motel at Rehobeth Beach, Delaware, just to score some much needed down time. A mild case of insomnia turned out to be a big plus when I stumbled onto the show, which I’d been intending to watch for months. I never left the room until check-out at 11a.m. the next day as I lay on the bed gobbling up episode after episode of Mad Men and a pot of hotel room coffee. After 4 episodes, I came to a few conclusions:

-“Joan” looks hottest in her most covered up dresses- no hiding those amazing curves

- “Betty” is my favorite in character and looks fresh and tailored and classically beautiful.

I started studying Betty’s look on hulu [no AMC at home], and fell back in love with camel cashmere and pearls.

My Mad Men “moment” came when Joan’s secretary pool were talking about whether they were “ a Jackie” or “ a Marilyn”. Although that was over 40 years ago, these 2 categories are still alive and very relevant today. In case you missed the episode, Betty is a Jackie, and Joan is a Marilyn.

I’ve always been “a Jackie”, even when I bleached my hair Marilyn white years ago, wanting to see if I could bust out of my “type”.

Not possible – it takes more than a hair color change.

The sort of jewelry, fragrance, and dress all contribute to your J or M category. I started studying the characters’ outfits and decided that they were too retro for my every day look, but maybe copying details such as hairstyle and jewelry would give me the effect I was after. When Gina DiDomenico’s of Paul Wilmot Communications emailed me about Janie explaining how to get the character’s style with a few accessories, it was the answer to this fashion prayer.

Follow this LINK to watch a video of Janie Bryant offering her unique fashion and styling tips

Thanks to Gina, I got my most pressing questions for Janie about “Mad Men Style” answered.

Below, the Q&A 1. Which character did you first want to work on? Why?

JANIE BRYANT: From the moment I read the script, I loved all of the characters. They each have their own story and costume nuances—I’m lucky to be able to design for them all!

2. **We’re fascinated with the past now, particularly the Sixties: Mad Men, The Real Stewardesses of Pan Am. What do you think it is about this period that fascinates us so much?

J.B. People feel nostalgia for a time when they could dress for occasions. They want to feel the everyday glamour that is so characteristic of the 1960s and incorporate this into their everyday lives.

3. How can we incorporate aspects of “Mad Men” dressing into our wardrobes? For women?

J.B. A classic shirtwaist dress or sheath dress are great silhouettes to incorporate into your wardrobe. Match your shoes to your handbag and don’t forget to layer those pearls, ladies! You could even add white leather wrist gloves for a fun little touch—any length will do!

4. P/s suggest a Carolee piece for the principle characters: Joan, and Betty, in particular.

J.B. It is simply the best for Betty, so strands of ladylike pearls would be my choice for her. For a little drama in Joan’s life, a broach makes such a statement!

Endnote: Today, I went to Lord & Taylor and purchased my first “Betty-Jackie” Carolee piece; a 16″ pearl necklace, which I’ll be wearing daily.As for my Joan-Mrailyn friends, this Art Deco crystal broach would be stunning on you!

Shiseido’s Breast Cancer Initiative – “Iron Maiden” – a Pink You Can Embrace

Pucker-up!

October is Breast Cancer Month and it’s still not too late to contribute to this very worthy cause. Last year, I bought a set of pink mixing bowls and an ice cream scoop but the prospect of buying cosmetics is far more interesting. I found-out about Shiseido’s “Iron Maiden” lipstick in an email sent to me by Kaplow PR. Terrific! Here is a way for those of you who haven’t contributed yet to do so in a fun and easy way.

For the fifth consecutive year, Shiseido Cosmetics America is partnering with Cosmetic Executive Women (CEW) to support their philanthropic arm, Cancer and Careers, during Breast Cancer Awareness Month. Cancer and Careers is a non-profit organization dedicated to supporting working women living with cancer.

Shiseido will donate $5 to Cancer and Careers for every unit of Shiseido Makeup Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Iron Maiden (RS308) sold throughout the month of October.

The Shimmering Rouge Lipstick in Iron Maiden (RS308) retails for $25 and is available for purchase at www.shiseido.com.

While you’re shopping, also take a minute and check-out my favorite new eyeshadows- Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eyecolor, created by makeup master, Dick Page. Click on his name to link to Shiseido’s YouTube Video in which Dick demos how to use PK302 – “Magnolia” in a pretty and completely wearable way.

My picks areL PK 302- Magnolia, VI305- Purple Dawn and BR709 – Sable – the one in the pic below, I applied with my fingers, which Dick told me was okay to do. They glide on and unlike the old cream shadows, stay put on your lid – no ugly creasing- all day long.

Guest Blog: “A Fashionista Shares Her Picks for a Stylish Fit Wardrobe” on Lisa Johnson Fitness

Text, Vivian Kelly

Today, I had the most important guest blog of my blogging career thus far. Last year, I met Fitness Guru and Fitness Twitter Queen, Lisa Johnson, while covering the NYFW’s spring 2011 shows with one of my dearest and oldest friends, Mark Behnke, the Menswear Editor for Fashion Tribes, and Managing Editor for Cafleurebon.

My post on fitness wear that is stylish enough to wear outside of the gym studio ran today on her popular blog, Lisa Johnson Fitness, and I couldn’t be more excited!

Bridal Day – The Fall 2012 Bridal Trends

Bridal has never been our favorite market to cover but because that’s the case, we view it as a “bring it on” type of challenge. It IS harder to write about something you’re not madly in love with, but here’s a market that continues to thrive despite the prolonged economic downturn. That in itself, sparked our interest and was responsible for our devoting our Sunday to covering the lastest NY Bridal Week.

Here is our Round-up of the fall 2012 Couture and bridal collections we saw on Sunday, October 16.

Text, Vivian Kelly & Laura Wood

9:00a.m. Ines di Santo

This one was a close call – a race-walk from the Cornell Club on East 44th Street to the Jeremiah Essex House, on West 59th Street, across Central Park.

I’d just plopped down on the gilt salon chair when the lights went down and smiling models hit the catwalk in white confections and a lot more beading and sequins than I remembered seeing two years ago [my most recent bridal show].

What seemed clear by the end of the show was that strapless is still the #1 neckline and that bodices are lean [almost tubular] and extend down to the hip. The effect is slimming and flattering – thumbs up on this one. It looked good, regardless if the skirt portion was a bias cut skirt, or of a pouffy ballgown one.

The show opened with a pale pink gown, which is a pretty alternative to the bright white gowns that start looking awfully similar after my 4th show that day.

Later in the lineup, there was a one shoulder gown with beautiful draping the Fashion List writers and I both liked because it was so minimalist. Its only ornamentation was the draping; not a bead or sequin in sight. Another interesting piece was a sheer tulle capelet which had a nostalgic Fifties’ feeling to it. Despite being liberally sprinkled with Swarovski crystals, it didn’t look overdone or weighed down.

The dress that most closely matched the RTW trends was “Lissome”, a retro Alencon lace dress which had Grace Kelly written all over it. The last few looks played with the concept of transparent bodices, which are probably too daring for the 1st time bride who tends to favor a more demure fairy tale princess look.

After lunch, Laura joined me and we met up with The Fashion List’s Scott French and PaulaRosine Long [a fellow Duke alumn!].

2:00p.m. Rita Vinieris, RIVINI Bridal Show

“Understated elegance” summarized the first segment of the show. True, there were sequins aplenty but these pastel colored evening gowns that opened the show had a very Thirties Hollywood glamour feeling about them.

The looks that followed were strictly bridal. We concluded that a big skirt and strapless bodice continue to be the most popular choice with brides to be, but there were also some options like a 3/4 off the shoulder sleeve and a tastefully executed 1 shoulder gown for variety.

In the accessory department, there were tiny diamond tiaras and colored waist sashes to give the bride a wasp waist. Our favorite design was the goddess gown in silk chiffon with a plunging neck line and tasteful beaded accents at the top of the straps.

Post show, we spoke backstage with Rita and she told us that the first “Hollywood Glamour” gowns we loved were actually the debut of her new eveningwear line. She confirmed that yes, she was indeed inspired by Thirties Hollywood Glamour.

We left the Alvin Ailey Dance Studio, happy to see sophisticated designs coming from a bridal designer.

3:00p.m. -Badgley Mischka, Pier 94

After the initial distraction of a tulle head piece which covered the models’ faces, we got down to examining the clothes. The big difference with what we’d seen so far was a very fitted silhouette especially through the bodice and hardly any strapless gowns in the collection.There was a drape front neckline, a sleeveless gown with a square neckline, and a gold v front evening gown with marabou at the shoulders and a fitted bondage ?! style gown. Both were shown in a pretty tea stain color, rather than the usual blinding white. There was also a v front flared gown with fawn flowers embroidered on the sheer outer layer. This design duo rose to fame in the nineties and are known for their skillful beading and embroidery which is always tasteful and never heavyhanded. This last gown was probably the most representative of their work in the RTW market.

4:00p.m. – Anne Bowen

We jumped into this show, not really thinking we’d make it to the Gansevoort ParkAvenue Penthouse Bar space, but we managed to catch the show midstream. We were SO glad we forged ahead, despite the lack of taxis, buses or subways.

Face it there’s no good way other than a private car to make it from the Piers to Park Ave. Once settled in though, we had an attitude adjustment, which began when Laura accepted the champagne flute served with 3 fresh blueberries and what appeared to be a mini orchid. We didn’t need the champagne incentive however, to be immediately impressed with what we saw. The Jean Harlow dress has become commonplace, but this is the best version we’ve seen yet. The Black model looked regal in “Amaryllis” a bias chiffon cut flutter sleeve gown. It’s not exactly Harlow, but it is Harlow inspired. The other big stunner was “Trinity”, hands-down the best use of beading we saw all day. Making with our “Queenly” theme, this one immediately made Laura think of Cleopatra. The next day, after reviewing all of the shots we got, thanks to excellent seats, we were in complete agreement that Anne Bowen was the best collection of the day, no question.

5:00p.m. – Anna Maier – Ulla Maija Bridal Show

Here was the Jean Harlow dress again, but it looked great here too, in shiny satin as opposed to chiffon at Anne Bowen. There was also a streamlined satin strap gown with a bias skirt and Swarovski crystal straps. It was our favorite, and it also happened to be one of the least expensive gowns on the line. Go figure.

6:00p.m. – Sarah Jassir

Hurrah! A pantsuit! The model who kicked off the show could have been YSL muse Betty Catroux, vogueing Yves’ slinky suits. As per Wikipedia, “Catroux is famed for her long white-blonde hair, lanky body, gaunt features, and androgynous appearance. Catroux and Saint Laurent met, according to her, in a “very, very gay” nightclub in Paris, Regine’s in the 1960s and have had a friendly relationship ever since.”

Okay, that’s one option. Taking it in an entirely different direction, if you’re more the Katherine Hepburn sort of woman who’s an equestrian, you’d probably prefer the palazzo pants which has us all nodding in approval.

If you’re bent on walking down the aisle in a gown, this designer offered a train, affixed with a low riding bow as well as dresses with some interesting gold handpainting. We only wish there had been more pant options as there are plenty of horsey women who just don’t wear skirts or big dresses, for that matter, ever.

7:00 p.m. - Simone Carvalli

This was our last collection of the evening and the Asia Society on Park and 70th was a beautiful spot to end it. After an elegant cocktail party downstairs, we were whooshed upstairs for the show. The highlight of the show was when “Trisha” came down the runway. It incorporated the RTW lace trend and a pleasing minimalism. It’s a practical gown as well, thanks to a sweetheart neckline and the black satin belt adorned with a big Swarovski brooch that gave the curvy model a wasp waist. Speaking of a slim waist, we noticed that the models were a bit more full figured than the ones we’d seen at Anne Bowen, Badgley Mischka, etc. After flipping through the program notes, we realized why.

The Company’s VP of Sales, Terry Brumley said, “Our unique construction and patent pending ‘Magic Fit’ that reduces between two to four inches off a bride’s waist, miraculously gives our brides a coveted hour-glass figure.”

The fit angle aside, the other notable detail was the designer’s liberal use of feathers, most notably on a silk taffeta strapless drop waist gown with a skirt embellished with Ostrich feathers.

Honorable Mention – St. Pucchi

We didn’t make it to the press show the following day, but fortunately, I snapped a few pics of this beautiful bodice, while dashing out of the Jeremiah Essex House to my next show.

Hair Trend Notes: a deep side part pulled into a loose chignon which looks natural and pretty. Last week, I saw a bride at my church in Greenwich, Christ Church, posing on the steps in exactly this same hair do. She looked beautiful and utterly unaffected. Genius!

Shiseido’s Foundation Brush – One of the Stars of s/s2012 NYFW

Text, Vivian Kelly

One of the stars of the spring summer 2012 NYFW was Shiseido. There’s too much to report on in one post, so this one is dedicated to one of their new MUST OWN tools – the Foundation Brush.

We were able to catch the lead artist backstage and video’d her demoing the brush on a model she was busy applying foundation on. [BTW -The model loves the brush, as it isn't scratchy like some of the others]. I was particularly interested as I’ve come to appreciate the value of a good foundation such as Shiseido’s Perfect Refining Foundation SPF 16, which I dab on my t-zone area every day and carry in my purse.

Watch the video, below, to learn more about this great tool.

Brush and Foundation, available for $30 at Shiseido.com

What’s With “Fairness in Fashion”? Answer – Douglas Hannant’s PINK Collection

Text, Vivian Kelly

As of late, the World of Fashion is obsessed with the notion of “fairness”. Prior to the Eighties, this notion did not exist. You could either afford a Louis V. bag or you could not. Many did not KNOW WHAT a Louis V. bag was, or meant.

The first time I heard of a Louis V. bag, I was 13 and reading Jacqueline Susann’s Book, “Once Is Not Enough”, at night, once my parents were in for the evening. In it, the ill-fated heroine, January Wayne, carries a Louis V. She is fabulous – has long center-parted hair, is tall, slim and gorgeous, in jeans and classic cashmere, toting her Louis V. Growing up, January’s typical forms of transport are her Daddy, legendary playboy and producer, [Mike Wayne's], private plane, expensive sports cars – you get the picture.

Although at the time the film begins, Mike’s career is in the toilet, he can’t bear to let his daughter not continue to live her Park Avenue/Palm Beach lifestyle. Mike marries Dee, a super rich bi-sexual socialite who’s having a secret affair with “Carla” – probably Greta Garbo, and collects husbands as a hobby. January’s only friend is “Linda”, aka Helen Gurley Brown, Cosmo’s ballsy editor.

The story line is trashy and addictive, but my real fascination was with January and her perfect clothes. January was nineteen, a bit too young to wear proper socialite clothes such as Douglas Hannant. Had she lived, this young heiress would doubtlessly have grown into it, but had Douglas Hannant’s PINK collection been around in 1975, she would have loved the classic pieces that are a little less serious but completely suitable for her jet set lifestyle.

The good news is that DH Pink is not exclusionary. To give it a more modern spin, as PR maven, Melanie Holland, President and Founder of The Project, said “This collection is for women like us too, who work and aren’t traveling around on private jets.”

This statement summarizes the seismic shift that’s taken place in fashion and society in the years between the 1975 release of Once Is Not Enough and Douglas’ PINK debut. The day has come were we can ALL have a bit of this upper-class look without actually being jet-setters.

Below, looks from the Douglas Hannant’s 1st PINK Collection.

Farah Angsana- When Less Really IS More

Text, Vivian Kelly

A few weeks ago, while in Town [NYC] to check-out Douglas Hannant’s new PINK collection, I had a number of interesting conversations. One of these was with an industry insider, M, whom I’ve known for 20 years, and whose opinions I respect. We had been rehashing a few of the recent NYFW Shows. Farah Angsana, an eveningwear designer came up.

I remarked that I’d been following her for 4 or so years ago, starting back when I attended the now defunct Mercedes Benz LA Fashion Weeks at Culver City, CA. She and Kevin Hall were consistently among the best shows there. Ms. Angsana knew how to shape a beautiful bodice – which reminded me of Nineties designer, Donald Deal – who may have missed his calling. HE should have been working with movie costume designer Edith Head. Together, they would have designed some utterly unforgettable gowns for Grace Kelly, similar to the stunning aqua one she wore in To Catch a Thief (1955).

Prior to seeing the butterscotch ruffled ball gown in this collection, I had associated the words, “beading” and “bling” with Ms. Angasana’s evening gown designs. This gown showed her ability to deliver design that is understated and elegant and that whispers rather than shouts. Designs such as these play better in the Box’s Art Gallery setting rather than on a runway with blaring music in the big tent’s stadium-like venue.

“Sometimes less is more, said my friend, M. It really worked better for her showing in the Box than having a big runway show.”

She’s right. I admittedly only saw a few of the looks before rushing off to the next show, but was impressed by the elegant looks I did catch. In our short interview, Ms. Angsana said that she was inspired by a recent trip to Asia and numerous visits to art galleries and museums in which she was sparked by the gorgeous fabrics and embroidery treatment she admired there.

Watch the video below, to hear the details.

Makeup Madness! Neiman Marcus’ Ken Downing and his Metier de Beaute Lip and Nail Duos

Text, Vivian Kelly

One way to follow fashion before making any major wardrobe decisions is to pick up some new makeup. This may sound ridiculously simplistic, but there’s nothing like a new nail and lip color to punch-up your look in record time.

While chatting with Neiman’s charismatic fashion director, Ken Downing, during the recent Mercedes-Benz NYFW Shows, he told us that he is dabbling in cosmetics – as if he doesn’t already have enough on his plate! “SO, I asked, WHAT is the hot color? I usually only buy lipstick and nail polish.”

“Bordeaux - it’s all about that, although I did a gorgeous flame orange for summer.”

As he says, on the NM site, “It’s MINE! It’s WINE! And it’s FABULOUS! My latest color collaboration with Le Metier Beaute creates the new Twin Set. Lips matching nails, never fails, in a season of Lady Chic glamour. “

Click on the video to hear what else Ken has to say about fall and spring fashions, who he loves at NYFW and about his makeup collaboration with Metier de Beaute, exclusively for Neiman Marcus.

I investigated online at Neiman’s website and at the counter. Of course, I had to try all three lipsticks on and walked away, unable to decide which of the three sets in the Bordeaux Collection I would take home with me. Would it be “Red My lips”, or “I’m Worn This Way” or “It’s Mine! It’s Wine!”

The website decided it for me. I’m going with his latest – a new creme lipgloss called “In the Know Bordeaux” and “Im Worn This Way” because I have to have the nail polish!

Assouline + Judith Ripka = 1 Great Combo and Contest You Need to Enter

Text, Vivian Kelly

Contests. Been there, done that. Right? Wrong. Walking out of CVS early last Friday morning on a milk run, I scanned my receipt as the register belched out a sheaf of coupons for stuff I don’t want or need: Pampers, box hair color, Doritos – ugh and a come-on of a contest:

“WIN $1,000 – CALL 1-800-998-4396″.

I tossed the receipt out on the way out.

Me, I’d rather pay attention to a contest that gives me a shot at something I care about – like the one posted here. This contest involves beautiful coffee table books that speak of my lifestyle and love for travel and culture [Assouline] and insanely beautiful fine jewelry [Judith Ripka].

A decade or so ago, I had the honor of interviewing Judith herself, on the phone, for a trade jewelry publication I was writing for. What impressed me was her passion for her craft and how sure she was that what she did was “right”, whether or not it happened to be [or not be] “in fashion”. Her jewelry is at once understated but spectacular with a tiny unexpected twist to it.

Since then, the Judith Ripka company has expanded and become a major player at Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, has a beautiful shop on 61st and Madison, another in Bal Harbour and at Saks Fifth Avenues nationwide. There’s even a nicer priced Judith Ripka for QVC line.

READ ON, TO PARTICIPATE IN THE CLOSING DAYS OF THIS CONTEST AND HURRY UP AND ENTER TO WIN!

Who WOULDN’T want these delicious “Eclipse” earrings – candy to jewelry-holics such as myself.

There’s a consolation prize, if you don’t win, you can still pick up a copy of her new book, Judith Ripka by Judith, now available at Assouline stores and online at Assouline.com

HERE, are the contest “deets”.

WHAT: an exciting Social Media contest where we will be giving away a pair of Eclipse earrings ($625 value) and a signed edition of the new book.

ABOUT THE PRIZE: Ripka’s dazzling Eclipse earrings were featured on Oprah’s Ultimate Favorite Things episode in November 2010 and are the perfect gift for any special woman in your life, or for yourself.

WHEN: The contest will launch on Friday, September 30th (the same day that the book will be available on www.assouline.com) and run through Friday, October 7th.

WHERE: It will live on Assouline’s Facebook Page and Judith Ripka’s Facebook Page.

*Don’t forget to ‘Like’ both pages to be qualified!

HOW [to win]: Contestants are asked to answer, “How do these earrings reflect your personal style?”

Submit YOUR answer to judithripka@assouline.com. The winner will be judged on creativity and originality and will be informed the week of October 9th by email.